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Over the past few years and really over the last decade when it comes to Rieslings I've turned my attention away from Germany and towards other regions of the world that are producing world class versions of the noble grape that are far from sweet.
Of those regions that include Oregon, France's Alsace appelation and Austria, and from there it's been the wines that Terry Theise imports that alwasy seemed were the first to catch my palate, but over the past ten years other importers have begun to uncover some of the gems hidden in the storybook land of wines that benefit from the Alpine climate.
One of those producers is the Salomon and their 2009 Undhof Kogl Riesling is a stunning example of wine craftsmanship from Austria. The steely, crisp, minerally, and yes, fresh fruit flavored Riesling shows why the wines from the Austiran Kremstel region (near the town of Krems) have grown on me. The bright lemon and orange peel flavor, backed by a whiff of white pepper is the perfect wine for Asiatic cooking or lighly charred fresh fish.
While many think of Riesling as only sweet and cloying, this Salomon white proves that dry Rieslings are a charm and are worth seeking out.
