andyabramson.com

Let’s Talk About The Weather

Lately I’ve been focused on sports and sports technology, artificial intelligence and the shifting technology landscape that impacts both universes. That doesn’t mean my love and interest in wine has waned. It’s simply shifted. It’s shifted much as the weather has. And that weather shift is affecting the wine industry greatly.

The wine world is experiencing something unprecedented in 2026: harvest dates that would have seemed impossible just a generation ago. France, Italy, Spain, and California are all reporting their earliest grape picks on record – not by days, but by weeks. And while the industry is quick to point to “climate variability” and “unusual weather patterns,” I think we need to be honest about what we’re actually watching unfold here.

The numbers tell a stark story:

Champagne started picking on August 6, shattering its previous record (August 17 in 2020) and running nearly six weeks ahead of its traditional mid-September window. France’s Aude region cut grapes on July 15. Italy’s Oltrepò Pavese harvested in late July for the first time in recorded history – a region that normally doesn’t touch fruit until mid-August. Spain’s Rioja is running a full month ahead of its early-2000s calendar. And California? Napa and Sonoma are three to four weeks early, with some sparkling lots picked on June 30.

June. Thirtieth.

Taking a step back, there are a few ways to interpret what’s happening here:

Some will see this as simply another data point in the long-running climate discussion – interesting, perhaps concerning, but ultimately just weather doing what weather does. Others will point out that French harvest timing has been advancing by four days per decade since the 1980s, suggesting this is part of a predictable trend we’ve simply been ignoring. And then there are those who will argue that early harvests aren’t necessarily bad for quality, that winemakers are adapting, and that we shouldn’t panic over calendar shifts.

But here’s what I don’t think gets enough attention: the compounding nature of what’s driving these changes. It’s not just one hot summer. Every region is reporting the same pattern – warm spring triggering early budbreak, followed by summer heatwaves accelerating sugar accumulation, with many areas also dealing with reduced yields. Champagne lost 40% of early buds to April frosts after an early flowering. California clusters are running 35-50% lighter than normal in some vineyards.

This isn’t adaptation. This is scrambling.

The wine industry has always prided itself on terroir – the idea that specific places produce specific expressions of grape varieties because of their unique combination of soil, climate, and tradition. But what happens when the climate component of that equation shifts by a month? When Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which picked in the second half of September in the 1950s, is now harvesting in the second half of August? When Saint-Émilion has moved from a September 26 start to August 29?

The ramifications here go beyond just picking dates. Winemakers are being forced to make critical decisions – when to pick for optimal ripeness, acid balance, and flavor development – on compressed timelines with less margin for error. The traditional 33-to-49-day window between véraison and harvest that growers have relied on for generations? That’s being squeezed by heat that accelerates everything. And unlike software or manufacturing, you can’t just iterate and try again next quarter. You get one shot per year, and if the weather doesn’t cooperate, you’re done.

What’s particularly telling is how universal this is. When Champagne, Rioja, Napa, and Franciacorta are all experiencing record-breaking early harvests in the same year, driven by the same underlying pattern of spring warmth and summer heat, we’re not talking about regional anomalies. We’re talking about a systemic shift.

And yet the industry response seems to be largely focused on managing the immediate logistics rather than confronting the longer-term implications. Yes, winemakers are adapting their techniques. Yes, some are experimenting with different varieties or rootstocks. But the fundamental question – can these regions continue to produce the wines they’re known for if the climate continues shifting at this pace? – doesn’t seem to be getting the attention it deserves.

I think part of the reluctance to engage with this more directly comes from the fact that there’s no good answer. What’s a Champagne house supposed to do, exactly, when its entire identity is built around a specific place that’s experiencing climate conditions it was never designed for? Move? Change the appellation rules? Start over?

The timing of all these records falling in a single year isn’t a coincidence – it’s a signal. And whether the wine industry wants to frame this as “the new normal” or “an exceptional vintage,” the data suggests we’re watching something more fundamental than year-to-year variation. When you’re beating previous records by a week or more, when you’re harvesting in months that were historically unthinkable, you’re not experiencing weather. You’re experiencing climate change.

And the rest of us? We’re going to feel this eventually, too. Not just in the wines we drink – though those will certainly change – but in the broader realization that systems we thought were stable, traditions we assumed would persist, are far more fragile than we wanted to believe. The wine industry just happens to be one of the first places where the evidence is impossible to ignore, measured not in models or projections, but in grapes picked in July when they should have been picked in September.

The question isn’t whether this is happening. The question is what comes next when the calendar keeps accelerating and there’s nowhere left to shift.